So Covid days amble on. A new three-tier system has been introduced in the UK where Tier One is medium risk, Two is high and Three is very high. Different restrictions apply in each tier. From Friday night London was moved from Tier One to Tier Two. The biggest impact this has on my life is that it means I cannot go out with my friends or invite them to my house. Or go to theirs. Unless we meet outside which let’s face it doesn’t bode for a happy social life as autumn turns to winter.
But what about if my friends live in a Tier One area (lucky them)? Can I go there and go out with them to their local? Or can I travel to a Tier One area, stay in a hotel with friends and happily sample the local pubs and restaurants? Or should I not be going anywhere if I live in a higher risk area? Or is it all irrelevant? And will it ever go away? Doesn’t feel like it at the moment.
Which is why I’m taking the chance to transport you to beautiful Rye in East Sussex which I visited in early September. My first work assignment since Covid that took me down to this green and charming part of England – a visit to the Oastbrook Winery. My journey involved getting a train to Robertsbridge early on a Sunday morning.
As I waited on the platform (I’m always early for a train…can’t help myself) I realised why I felt excited and slightly apprehensive. This was the first train I’d been on since December time pre Corona. As it turns out the perfect reintroduction to rail travel as there was barely anyone around and it was a very pleasant and short journey through quintessential English countryside. Check out the empty carriage.
The sun came out to celebrate, it felt like a return to summer. And I spent the day revelling in the joys of Oastbrook. What a beautiful setting and some lovely local rose to complete the day. Love a vineyard.
Late afternoon and it was time to head through winding country lanes to my home for the next couple of days. The Ship Inn in the historic town of Rye.
Rye’s colourful history
Rye is described as a seaside town though it is separated from the sea (which is nearly two miles away) by the Romney Marshes. It was once a port (before the sea receded) situated on the South Coast of England where the English Channel is at its narrowest. So it’s had an action-packed history with plenty of invasions (mainly from the French) and a long history of smuggling which began in the 13th century when Edward I first introduced the customs systems. I guess no one likes paying taxes!
I could imagine smugglers and all sorts of travellers in the labyrinthine streets of Rye. Though today it’s more of a haven for relaxing strolls through cobbled streets with plenty of antique shops, other quirky stores and that all-important range of welcoming pubs.
Exploring the cobbled streets
Picturesque for sure, though not always easy to walk on, there are plenty of cobbles in Rye. The town kind of redefines a proper cobbled street for me. Just opposite my pub/hotel The Ship Inn (more of which later) was the famous Mermaid Street which leads up to the Mermaid Inn.
The inn was rebuilt in 1420 after the entire town was burnt to the ground in 1377 by French invaders. Have a drink in the bar which local smugglers frequented in the 1730s and 40s – there’s even a secret passageway.
Just down the road, the Parish Church of St Mary stands on a hilltop in the old town surrounded by more cobbles. It’s been there for more than 900 years although it was partly destroyed in 1377 when the town was set on fire by those French marauders who also carried off the church bells. The citizens of Rye weren’t having this – they set off to Normandy the following year to bring them home. You can climb the church tower to see them and the fabulous views across the town and nearby countryside.
Rye was even under French rule for a time – it was returned to the English crown in 1247. This is when they decided to strengthen its defences (and who can blame them!) with the building of the town wall and four gates. Only the Landgate is still there – grandly towering over the town with its Union Jack proudly fluttering on high. There also great views of the countryside from the top of this hill and benches to rest weary legs from cobblestoned meanders.
Where to eat and drink
There are plenty of places for refreshment as you absorb Rye’s history. Like the picturesque Cobbles Tea Room just off one of the main streets.
I ate dinner my first night in my home-from-home, The Ship Inn. My first dinner in a pub since lockdown relaxation and it made for a great experience. A one-way system, spread out tables and alfresco drinking encouraged. I enjoyed a delicious plate of plaice with a butter, caper sauce and new potatoes. With a healthy side of broccoli and a glass of the local rose before an early night in preparation for a day of exploration.
The best of breakfasts
As part of the new Covid protocols I had to order my breakfast the night before and book a time. Easy decision…eggs Benedict it was. I came down early to be greeted by a giant cup of tea and pretty soon a plate of delightful breakfast. I love an eggs Benedict and this is one of the best ones ever. Each element was so perfect, I savoured every mouthful.
On day two I was going to go for Benedict again…but pushed the boat out and ordered eggs Royale. The same deal pretty much but with smoked salmon instead of ham. Possibly my second best breakfast ever. The Ship Inn’s breakfasts are calling me back!
My second night in Rye I went for an early dinner at another pub in the centre of town. The Standard Inn dates back to the 15th century. It’s welcoming and atmospheric with plenty of nooks and crannies and I had enjoyed two lovely dishes.
As I often find, the starters were more tempting that the mains and I only wanted a light supper. So I ordered two. The Dungeness Crab Tartine was wonderfully tasty, fresh, and creamy with a fab mayo. Loving the local seafood.
Alongside it I had the Wedge Salad. Crunchy wedges of lettuce, tomatoes, chives, bacon crumb and a blue cheese dressing. A thoroughly delicious dinner and just what my tastebuds desired.
There’s a lot more great food to sample in Rye. The fish and chips from Marino’s are legendary, and I spotted both Thai and Indian restaurants with good-looking menus. And there’s also more bars to explore.
Take me to the beach
I’m a beach baby. You’d know that if you’re a regular reader. So, being so close to the famous Camber Sands beach, I had to pay it a visit. Obviously. So I got on the bus. Okay we’re not in London so there isn’t a bus every five minutes like I’m used to. But all you have to do is be organised and check out the timetable to plan around.
Around a 15-minute drive east of Rye this magnificent beach extends over three miles to just beyond the Kent border. It’s such an expansive space framed by the stunning dunes. The tide was out on my visit so there was an incredible feeling of space. I walked for nearly two hours, inhaling the sea air and checking out the kite surfers, sandcastle builders and fellow walkers. Beach time always makes me feel better.
The beach is framed with a few cafes (where I ordered a tasty latte) and shops selling typical beachside wares. Like these beautifully colourful buckets and spades. Seriously made me want to start building castles.
Where to stay
My base was The Ship Inn which I found through a new website stayinapub.co.uk. Their mission is to celebrate the Great British Pub – now that’s a good mission. And they’re focusing on promoting pubs with rooms. I’m certainly sold – it was a thoroughly enjoyable experience.
The Ship Inn has been recently refurbished, so rooms are modern and fresh. I had a lovely ensuite, a large comfortable bed and flat screen TV. As well as a little tea and coffee station. Everything I needed for a lovely stay.
And the pub is in the perfect spot, easy walking distance from all the attractions and the bus and train stations.
Oh and by the way, Rye is still in Tier One. Should I hop back on the train and settle in by the seaside for a while? It’s very tempting.
The Ship Inn is at The Strand, Rye, East Sussex.
