I’ve really enjoyed getting back out into London’s restaurantland. It’s a different place with lots of new Covid measures that vary by establishment. I’m happy to adapt, it’s just so nice to be out there. Today at Bocca di Lupo we were shown to a table enclosed on two sides and separated from the next-door tables with a clear perspex screen. It felt like were enclosed in a little cocoon of safety. The perfect start to lunch in one of my very favourite London restaurants.
Bocca di Lupo is in the very heart of Soho. It’s been open for 12 years now, serving food from all across Italy’s 20 regions. The menu changes regularly, though there are some of their classic dishes that you can usually always get, even if they aren’t on the menu on the day. All you have to do is ask.
What’s on the menu
I love the way the menu’s designed. Everything is categorised by region and comes in small or large portions or sometimes even as individual items. Like this fabulous olive. Yes it is giant, stuffed with minced pork and veal, coated in breadcrumbs and fried. Never has an olive tasted so fabulous with its rich, tasty filling.
From the Pot or Pan section we ordered this vibrant chickpea dish cooked with tomato and mint. Italian-style chickpeas somehow seem creamier and tastier and the mint added a beautiful freshness.
And now for the exciting news! They had vitello tonnato on the menu. I adore it! An incredible combination of thinly sliced rare veal with a creamy mayo sauce made with tuna, anchovies and capers. It sounds like a bit of a strange mix but somehow it is a match made in heaven. This would definitely be part of any dream meal I would wish for. And today’s offering was one of the best I’ve ever had.
Bocca di Lupo makes all its own pasta (obviously). And extraordinary pasta it is too. Like these fabulous orecchiette. Their name comes from their shape as they look like a small ear. Making for the perfect receptacle for the salty Nduja sauce. Nduja is a kind of spicy spreadable sausage with a lovely savoury bite. Served here with a silken tomato sauce and Italian cheese. All highly satisfying. Bocca di Lupo never fails to delight.
Today’s price point
Today’s food costs around £50. It was the perfect amount for lunch for two.
White wine starts from £26 a bottle, rose from £32 and red from £24. Everything on the extensive list is from Italy.
There’s also a great cocktail list starting from £9. Their Bellinis are ambrosial.
Bocco di Lupo is at 17 Archer Street, London W1 in the heart of Soho.
