So after a long, long time, one South African and several London lockdowns and seemingly interminable Covid-19 life, borders opened up in the UK early summer. I’ve missed travelling so much so grabbed the chance to jet off to the beautiful Portuguese island of Madeira (at the time on the UK’s desirable Green List). Time to take to the skies again.
Of course in days of Corona the process was very different and more complex. And it felt somewhat strange – I guess not venturing further than my local park for months had become my new comfort zone. There were tests to be taken and forms to be filled in – it sure focused the mind as well as scrambling it. So I was surprised and elated (and somewhat smug for having correctly navigated all the required documentation) when check in at Heathrow was quicker and easier than I’d been anticipating. And there I was sitting in an airport for the first time in over a year. I felt encased in a bubble of happiness and celebrated with a glass of champagne before take off – it just had to be done. Bubbles for my bubble.
And then there was the unfamiliar sensation of getting on a plane. And taking off…and flying high above the clouds. How wonderful! And how much I’ve missed it. Madeira is only a four-hour flight from London though it does have a rather tricky airport to land at which we didn’t discover until we were due to land there!
The wind was stronger than the safe levels for planes to land so after circling for a while we were diverted to the nearby island of Porto Santo. Where we sat for what seemed an interminable time with the possibility of having to return straight back to Heathrow if conditions didn’t change.. Luckily they did. How disappointing would my first post-covid trip have been if I hadn’t been able to visit foreign lands!? As soon as the wind dropped to acceptable levels we took the short hop back to Madeira and landed on its narrow strip. To enthusiastic cheers from the entire plane. Thankfully. How’s that for an eventful first post-Covid flight?
From there it was only a short drive to our stunning hotel which was home for our trip – the Savoy Palace in the city’s capital Funchal (more of which later). Checking into a hotel – another forgotten experience and settling in to our palatial surrounds and stunningly elegant rooms brought me more joy. Here’s the vibrant floral display that welcomed us in the sparkling lobby. Good start.
What to do in Madeira
The volcanic island of Madeira sits in an archipelago in the North Atlantic west of Morocco. It was discovered in 1419 by the Portuguese who named it Madeira which means wood or timber – because of the fact that it was pretty much covered in forest. In fact it was so densely wooded there was nowhere to grow anything in what is extremely fertile soil. So the settlers burnt the forests on the south of the island, built the lavadas (more of which later) to channel the water down from the mountains and constructed terraces into the steep slopes of the island. This was the only way to create space to grow in what is extremely fertile terrain.
They say you can grow pretty much anything in Madeira and you do see every bit of terrace space made the best use of with bananas, sugar cane and myriad fruit and veg grown around the houses. The capital, Funchal, where we stayed, is named after the Funcha (wild fennel) that originally grew there.
Madeira is diversely spectacular with an incredible range of land and seascapes to absorb. There’s the amazing and unexpected plateau on the top of the island, towering majestic mountains sloping down to rich, verdant valleys, beautiful villages and towns clinging to the sides of hills rolling down to the azure sea where dolphins play. There’s also a fabulous food culture with fish, fruit and vegetables I’d never heard of before – gotta love that. Here’s what to do to discover magical Madeira.
Travel by Jeep Around the Island
There’s a modern and efficient road system connecting up the different parts of the island – with more tunnels than I’ve seen anywhere to cope efficiently with the mountainous landscape. And there are also plenty of smaller, rougher roads that make for a more adventurous exploration which you need a four-wheel drive to safely access. We did an exhilarating jeep tour with Madeira Mountain Expeditions to discover the road less travelled along the steep ravines and through the aromatic laurel forests. Love that aroma! We stopped for early morning yoga in the peace of the open countryside on the plateau and found a secluded picnic spot for a delightful packed breakfast afterwards. On our way home we took in the majestic blues of the mountains and the constantly changing incredibly beautiful landscapes.
Commune with Dolphins on the Ocean
I love taking to the sea, it gives you such a different perspective and it’s just so invigorating. Today’s trip was on a quest to find dolphins as well as a scenic tour of quaint little bays and towering cliffs. We took to the ocean wave with Rota dos Cetaceos in a comfortable dinghy-type vessel. The company is dedicated to the observation of dolphins and whales in Madeira and our knowledgeable guide was full of interesting facts and figures.
We encountered two pods of these magical creatures – Atlantic spotted dolphin to be specific – who played and splashed around our boat almost close enough to touch. The dinghy sits low in the water really making you feel part of the dolphins’ magical world. We also visited scenic coves and sailed past towering cliffs that punctuate the rugged coastline, including Cabo Girao, the second highest sea cliff in the world. Loved the colourful boats and villages we passed by, too.
Explore Funchal’s Old Town and Visit the Mercardo dos Lavradores
Okay everyone knows I love a market. And I really loved this one. Bustling and bright with tropical flowers and a cornucopia of fruit like I’ve never seen before. The friendly fruit stall holder insisted we try his range of passion fruit – he had about seven different types – who knew passion fruit came in so many forms? After feasting on fruit we shopped excitedly for souvenirs – stylish ceramics, foodie treats and lace and linen. Market happiness all round.
The market is in the historic Old Town (Zona Velha) with its winding streets and myriad bars and restaurants, the perfect place to get lost in for a few hours.
Take a Walk Along the Lavadas
So Madeira has something truly unique to discover. Lavadas! The Portuguese started to build this network of mini canals in the 16th century to carry water south and east from the mountains to the drier agricultural region. There are now over 1,350 miles of them throughout the island. They are still used for irrigation while also offering the great walking paths alongside them. A lovely way to explore the quieter parts of the island, meandering through villages with beautiful views all around. And so peaceful. I’d like to do a walk like this every day.
Take in the View from Cabo Girao
We took time to visit Cabo Girao which is the highest sea cliff in Europe and is famous for its suspended glass-floored platform. I’m not great with heights but I loved the views and the novelty of the spectacle. Though I did kind of run across the glass bit looking rigidly ahead. You gotta do what you gotta do.
Enjoy the Delightful Food
So my stay in Madeira was way too brief to try all the food I would have liked to. Because there were so many amazing foodie offerings in the hotel we ate there, testing out all the different restaurants. And what a fabulous bunch they were too. Breakfasts were served al fresco at Jacaranda on the top of the hotel with fabulous sea views. My favourite dish was their hummus and avocado on toast. I ordered extra bacon and asparagus with for an early morning feast. What a way to start the day.
And the breakfast juices were fabulous, too. I double-juiced every day with my combo of freshly squeezed orange and a glass of carrot and ginger.
The poolside restaurant Alameda offered a tasty range of salads, fish and pizzas, including this local black scabbard which is meaty, sweet and totally delicious.
At night Jacaranda transformed into a fabulous Nikkei experience with the freshest of sushi and sashimi – like this tuna which is caught locally. There’s a lot of fresh fish on the menu here and it’s mainly caught just off the island’s coast. Gotta love that.
And for a truly extraordinary dining experience we enjoyed dinner at Galaxia with an incredible tasting menu with wine pairings. The food that dreams are made of in another beautiful setting overlooking Funchal’s twinkling lights and the sparkling sea.
I’m certain there’s no end to the foodie delights in Madeira and feel like I only scratched the surface. Still, always good to leave wanting more!
Drink Poncha and celebrate
It’s always my goal to seek out and try the local liquor wherever I go. Well it’s fun isn’t it? And often tells you a lot about the place you’re visiting. In Madeira, it’s Poncha all the way. This traditional Madeiran tipple is made by combining aguardente de Cana (the local rum made from sugar cane), honey, sugar and lemon or orange. Well that’s the typical ones, but you’ll find them in all sorts of fruity flavours. I loved the passionfruit Poncha – no surprise there with my penchant for passion fruit. It’s made by vigorous mixing using a kind of stick – and believe me it’s wonderful. Don’t leave Madeira without trying it.
Enjoy Sunshine Time at the Pool
I love a pool and Savoy Palace’s main pool is quite frankly the pool of dreams. There are plenty of sun loungers in different areas to suit your mood and the balmy water beckons from them. I’ve missed that proper sunshine pool vibe so spent as much time as I could soaking it in. Oh and they serve great cocktails to your bed, too! And as if that’s not enough there are also rooftop pools and a bar for those of us lucky enough to be enjoying the Savoy Premium Experience. A serene, exclusive experience with incredible views all round. This is pool heaven.
Where to Stay
We stayed at the fabulous five-star Savoy Palace Hotel. A truly palatial experience where we enjoyed the Savoy Premium Experience which offers lots of extras. Like access to the hotel’s roof top with its infinity pools and bar. And a selection of daily treats which seemed to appear as if by magic every time we left our suite. Oh and the suite – spacious, luxurious and oh-so indulgent with a large balcony overlooking the sea. And a luxurious white marble bathroom with the indulgence that is a rainforest shower. What a way to rediscover travel after our torrid Covid-19 times.
