So today, we’re ascending to the culinary heights of La Colombe. Literally. This fine-dining restaurant in Cape Town’s Constantia Valley perches high up a steep, winding road with stunning valley views. We’ve arrived in some magic land deep in the forest.
Bookings are hard to come by at La Colombe so lucky for us, our friends Rene and Andrew were celebrating their wedding anniversary, had booked way in advance and invited us to join. Looking back over my blog entries, I worked out it was nine years since we’d visited what is one of Cape Town’s greatest restaurants. Not sure why we’d left it so long. A big mistake happily remedied.
What’s on the Menu
La Colombe serves a choice of two set menus. We went for the reduced one (it seemed to offer plenty). Gasp-inducing courses are served at a leisurely pace and with a flourish and a smile.
The bird’s nest awaited us, sitting intriguingly as the table’s centrepiece. A zesty, citrussy palate cleanser to prepare ourselves for the forthcoming feast served inside little eggs, accessed by decorking and sipping through the straws.
And served with a personal message from the chef, James Crag, saying: “Food is our theatre. We hope you enjoy the show”.
Words proved right with the spectacular first-course offering. This was my favourite part of the meal; I’m still dreaming about it. A mix of dishes served in mushroom-shaped crockery with the most beautiful-looking, glossy sweet potato bread nestling in fresh foliage. Honestly, it’s like a forest miraculously appeared on our table.
Mushroom tops are lifted to reveal an array of delights. Make sure you look under the lid where mouthwateringly rich liver parfait with red onion and port nestles waiting to be spread generously over the warm, pillowy bread. The other half houses the tenderest of impala tartare made with a delightful sesame and hoisin dressing.
The truffled pea in vibrant green is served in a pastry case and topped with edible gold leaf. I love peas, and this may be the ultimate pea morsel I’ve ever tasted.
The next course has been on the menu since the restaurant opened. Don’t mess with perfection. The Tuna La Colombe is cleverly served in a tin (never has tinned tuna tasted so spectacular) and is a mix of fresh yellowfin tuna, guacamole, cumin, chipotle, and citrus. Flavours that dance on your tongue. Please never take this off the menu.
Our next course is described as smoked tomato, aubergine, pine nut. None of our party were particularly impressed with the prospect of this dish. And we were all wrong. Served in a tomato-shaped dish (how I wanted to put this dish in my bag!), this looks like a tomato and tastes like a tomato but it’s not a tomato. It’s a mousse (tomato) stuffed with a mousse (aubergine) and shaped to look more like a perfect tomato. With an incredible sauce bursting with tomato flavour and delicate little croutons on the side. Never judge a book by its cover – or a restaurant dish by its description. Clearly.
Okay now we’re moving on to the course I was most looking forward to. Crayfish and langoustine raviolo served with coconut, coriander, and Black Forest ham. My mouth is watering as I think about this beautifully soft pasta parcel filled generously with the sweetest seafood and topped with salty ham morsels and a light, zesty dressing. Triple yum in a bowl.
Time for the final savoury course. By now, I was starting to feel rather full, not used to eating so many courses these days. Having said that, I could have licked this plate clean, and I easily polished everything off. The most tender and tasty grass-fed beef, cooked medium rare and served with carrot, broccoli and salsa verde. And the tastiest baby onion I’ve ever had the joy to eat. A plate that looks like a work of art; I’ve seen a lot worse art, actually.
Dreamy Desserts
Time for a nibble of dessert entitled mandarin, manjori, pistachio. Cool and refreshing, a zesty citrusy hit making the perfect finish to a perfect lunch.
Well almost. Our waiter then appeared with this stunning array of eclairs. I managed one…I know; I couldn’t resist…
This is a menu that has been very carefully thought about and designed to entertain. At the same time, the theatre doesn’t detract from the food. Everything is absolutely delicious, all the flavours work together magnificently and although there’s a lot of food it’s perfectly balanced so you don’t feel overly full afterward.
La Colombe is the place for a special occasion. But don’t forget every day should be a special occasion (my post-Covid mantra). So book a table now. I’ll be returning when I return to Cape Town and can’t wait to participate again in this wonderful show.
Today’s Price Point
The set reduced lunch menu is R1395 per person. This is £62 at today’s exchange rate. Great value for the highest quality finest dining – you’d pay at least double this for something similar in the UK.
Wine is on the expensive side (for South Africa), starting from around R400 a bottle.
La Colombe is at Constantia Main Road, Silvermist Wine Estate, Constantia, Cape Town.
Wow – this is such a well written review of a spectacular place! We have to book now ☺️☺️