Rick Stein Barnes: Delectable Riverside Cuisine

Today it’s time for our annual pilgrimage to Rick Stein Barnes. Well, I only really discovered it recently, just post lockdown but now make an effort to go there every year as it’s such a lovely experience. As it happens it’s also not far from where we live but I’d certainly travel further for the experience. On our Rick Stein day it was windy, rainy and not particularly warm. More like an autumn lunch then. Oh well, can’t live in London for the weather and once you get there it really doesn’t matter what’s happening outside – you’re in your own Rick Stein bubble.

We were soon settled in our premium window seats overlooking the mighty Thames – the river still looks majestic in the rain. And a window seat at Rick Stein Barnes is a situation to be relished. As is perusing the fabulous menu. There’s such a tempting range of fish and seafood, including some great-value set menus, making it a challenge to decide.

What’s on the Menu at Rick Stein Barnes


I absolutely adore devilled kidneys and you don’t see them on many menus. So I ordered them in a fish restaurant (sorry, not sorry), served on sourdough with earthy chestnut mushrooms. Truly spectacular – I’m going to order them every time from now on, no discussion needed.

The crispy prawn croquettes come from the appetiser section of the menu. Creamy tasty morsels that could have done with a zesty dip to liven them up a little. Some honest feedback from Anna who ordered them.

Terry decided to go for the menu of the day which was three courses for £17.50. Seriously that’s not a typo. He started with a sweet and mild pea, lettuce and sorrel soup. I love peas and enjoyed the creamy lightness and flavours. Yes of course I had to taste it.

Richard (the fourth of our party) decided to go for the set menu which offers three choices of starter, main and dessert. It’s £25.95 for two courses or £29.95 for three. He started with this salad of griddled mackerel with sundried tomatoes and fennel seed. The perfect light starter with perfectly cooked mackerel.

On to the Mains

Terry’s main on his menu was sauteed sole spaghettini with Kashmiri chilli and garlic. The lightest of pasta cooked al dente with the sweetest of fish, a beautiful chilli bite and the warmth of garlic. The rest of us got some serious food envy at the sight of this delectable pasta dish.

Anna went for the hake which was pan fried with mussels, asparagus, peas and parsley. I nearly went for it too as these are pretty much most of my favourite ingredients. Thumbs up all round.

I went for a retro classic – lemon sole Veronique with creamy white wine sauce, grapes and fleurons. So sole Vernonique was invented in London in 1903 by the French chef August Escoffier and named after Messager’s comic opera Veronique which was running at London’s Coronet Theatre at the time. It’s been around for a while and is mouthwateringly delicious with the softest, sweetest of rolled sole parcels and a plate-licking standard of sauce. Oh and a fleuron is a decorative pastry, and deliciously buttery it is, too. Chef Escoffier clearly knew what he was doing!

Part of Richard’s set menu was the pan fried sea bass for mains, served with a white wine sauce and new potatoes on the side. A generous portion of mouth-watering sea bass with crispy skin and a delightful sauce.

So as two set menus were in progress, dessert seemed like a vital step. First up zesty lemon tart. Who doesn’t love a lemon tart?

Another option on offer was this comforting bread and butter pudding served with custard. A British classic so well executed.

Being not much of a pudding person I had to order the cheese board. I just couldn’t be left out. It was the perfect finish to another great Rick Stein lunch. The place certainly has a kind of magic about it and even the thought of going back makes me feel happiness. Because I will be going back…and those devilled kidneys had better still be on the menu.

Rick Stein Barnes

Today’s Price Point

One of the beauties of lunch at Rick Stein Barnes is that you can pretty much choose how much you want to spend.

There’s the three-course lunch menu for £17.50.

There’s the set menu which is £25.95 for two courses and £29.95 for three courses.

If you want to eat off the a la carte menu it’s a bit more expensive but still great value for great dishes.

Wine is also very well priced, with white starting from £24.50 a bottle and red from £25.

Rick Stein Barnes is at Tideway Yard, 125 Mortlake High Street, London SW14.

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