A magical journey from Rhodes to Marmaris

I love travelling the globe and am lucky enough to have visited many stunning destinations. I was very excited to be heading for Rhodes in Greece to embark on my Mediterranean Delights Fitness Voyage around Greece and Turkey.

Travel can come with its downsides though. Like being delayed 17 hours at Gatwick Airport! This involved eight hours sitting on two planes on the runway for a raft of reasons before being herded back into the airport for a night in the (very nice) Hilton Hotel and an early morning wake up to try all over again. Tedious to say the least.

This did have the positive effect of making my eventual arrival in Rhodes even more joyous. Due to the shocking weather our voyage was delayed, too, and I explored this beautiful town in a torrential downpour.

Rhodes Old Town is a charming place packed with history and lots of great shopping and eating opportunities. Even in the rain!


Grey skies and waterlogged streets couldn’t spoil the beauty of Rhodes


Time for some shelter and a delicious traditional Greek lunch

And every cloud has a silver lining – or in this case a rainbow!


The perfect rainbow lit up the cloud-laden sky

I was told that Rhodes supplies a lot of the country with water, so the rain was a good thing – and having grown up on the farm I get that. But I was pleased when it stopped and we could embark on our adventure, early the next morning. Our beautiful Turkish gulet was heading for the Greek island of Symi. First stop the Panormitis monastery.


The imposing building seen from our boat

No one seems definite about exactly when everything was built but it’s thought the church was constructed around 450AD over the site of an ancient temple. It stands on the left of a beautiful courtyard and is dedicated to the Archangel Michael. Tradition has it that if you ask a favour of Archangel Michael (and loads of people do), you must give him something in return, so the little, elaborately decorated church is packed with an array of gifts. Rooms are available to rent in the monastery, I’d imagine it’s the ideal place to get away from everything and enjoy some peace and Greek sunshine by the sea.

Explorations complete, it was time to embark on our first hike. Right up to the top of the hill. There’s a herbal aroma like no other in Symi with wild sage aplenty, hints of oregano and thyme and the refreshing scent of fresh pine needles. We breathed in the heady cocktail as we ascended higher and higher with a widening panorama of blue to feast our eyes on.

view from top

On top of the world looking towards Turkey

The hike was a good work out but nothing too taxing with a wide, beautiful and somewhat wild path to follow. It felt like we could be the only people on top of a beautiful world. What a perfect first morning.

walkding down

Hiking doesn’t get better than this in its shades of blue and green

There are endless photo opportunities on this trip, perfectly encapsulated here as we all stop to snap away at each other, the views and even ourselves.


A picture-taking extravaganza

We sailed every day, but never very far. Another cove in Symi revealed steep cliffs, a little beach, another monastery (tiny this time) and plenty of goats nimbly descending precipitous slopes. I’ll always feel a sense of happiness when I hear the tinkle of goat bells again.


Moored in the cove for swimming and chilling time

Daily stops varied from us being the only boat in sight enveloped in the most beautiful peacefulness you could imagine to harbourside mooring in lovely seaside towns. The perfect combination of get-away-from-it-all relaxation and happy exploration with welcoming locals, bustling bars and restaurants and amazing shopping opportunities.

I fell in love with Symi Harbour instantly. I mean, do villages get more beautiful than this?

Symi harbour

Picture perfect Symi with our beautiful boat in the foreground

With herbs growing aplenty it wasn’t surprising to find the most wonderful array on sale. Here’s Stavros’s stall, a real treasure trove of delights sold with a smile and a chat. Great value too, I bought a big bag of the most aromatic oregano ever and some herb tea that I’ve been drinking copiously since my return home.


My kind of shop – herbs and spices galore

Our second hike of the trip, just before sunset, took us around the side of the harbour, up a stone path to the very top and another picturesque monastery.


Up the hill we go as the sun sets


Beautiful views all around in the last of the day’s sunlight


Monasteries exude their peace everywhere

Symi’s where Rick Stein did his cooking in his recent TV series, From Venice to Istanbul. I have a great job, but I’ve got to say, his has to be better! As I watched the series avidly I recognised the town and felt immediately at home in it. It’s the perfect holiday spot, one that I hope to visit again for a longer stay.

We did have time to test out a couple of the bars and I convinced one of my fellow travellers to share a jug of Retsina with me. I’d recently read a novel based in Crete and it seemed that every house the main characters went to (and it was a lot of houses), they were offered Retsina and bowls of olives. When in Greece…

I quite liked the Retsina with its earthy, somewhat weird taste. I’d describe it as kind of like a cross between Grappa and wine. Nothing wrong with that.

This was our last stop in Greece,  a couple of hours sailing across the bay and everything felt very different. Welcome to Turkey and Bozburun, another seaside port with its own  unique charm. And amazingly welcoming, friendly people.


The contrast of super yachts and mosques in Turkey

We were even invited to a local home for lunch. Now that’s friendly. A meander up the hill and we arrived to a table set under the trees laden with a delicious home-cooked meal.

local house

The best way to sample local cuisine – freshly cooked for you at home

This beautiful dish of pumpkin leaves stuffed with tasty, savoury rice was a real labour of love…and it tasted like it.

pumpkin leaves

Stuffed pumpkin leaves in the dappled sunshine

We were also presented with large chillis picked straight out of the garden, a beautifully fresh salad and a big bowl of aubergines cooked with tomatoes and garlic. All produce straight out of the garden a few metres away. Just fabulous.


Salad with a bit of spice on the side

A post-lunch wander back through town to our boat home and it was out into the wide blue yonder again and away from civilisation into a perfect azure cove for the night. We hadn’t been anchored for long before shopping opportunities came to us. My first experience of boat shops…an ice cream man, a load of beautiful towels and linens and even freshly baked bread first thing in the morning.


This has got to be the best way to shop

As we headed towards our final destination, Marmaris, we stopped off opposite Paradise Island for a final dip in the ever-warm sea. How I miss that sea.

paradise island

Paradise island is covered in lush trees

The final sail of the week and we headed into Marmaris Harbour. From my favourite spot on the top of the boat (officially know as the sunning area), all set to the tones of Johnny Cash (a boat tradition apparently) which somehow seemed to add an extra poignancy – and ultimately a couple more songs to my iPod.

marmaris harbour

There’s plenty of boat life in Marmaris

Here’s the view from our final mooring of the journey in Marmaris. An amazingly buzzy holiday town, with the front coast-facing road packed with a cornucopia of restaurants offering delicious Turkish fare. And there’s Bar Street running parallel behind it, no confusion as to what happens there.


Lovely Marmaris with its restaurants with great views

I loved the Grand Bazaar (a smaller less hectic version of the one in Istanbul) with an exotic mix of spices, souvenirs, clothes, bags and pretty much anything else you could desire. All dotted with great food stalls and coffee stops. I could meander here for days and snapped up bags of chilli powder, sumac and dried pomelo. Great flavours to take home.


The greatest collection of spices and herbs I’ve ever seen in one place.

Here’s a final shot of our wonderful gulet the Muhtesem A. My home for a wonderful week and one I really didn’t want to leave.


Our beautiful home, the Muhtesem A

Voyage itineraries have to be a bit flexible, taking weather into consideration – as I discovered. Who’d have thought it could rain that much in one afternoon in Greece. Here’s the map so you can get an idea of the geography. The stars denote Rhodes (our starting point, Symi, Bozburun and Maramaris (our finishing point).


Find out more about Mediterranean Delights Fitness Voyages by clicking here. It’s a truly great way to explore this beautiful region. There are a range of fabulous trips available for 2016.

Sailing delight in Greece and Turkey

This September I boarded a beautiful Turkish gulet, the Muhtesem A, for a week of heaven in the Mediterranean. For someone who’s pretty well travelled, I’ve discovered the beauty of Greece and Turkey late in my travelling life so I’m soaking up every moment of these wonderful countries – trying to make up for lost time, I guess. And there’s no better way to do it than on this ultimate get-away-from-it-all voyage.

our boat

Our beautiful boat moored in one of the many picture-perfect coves we visited

My Mediterranean Delights Fitness Voyage (MDFV) took us from Rhodes in Greece to Marmaris in Turkey (more of the actual route in a later post). From the instant I stepped onboard in a very rainy Rhodes (my flight had been delayed for a tedious 17 hours) I felt like I had come home. My heart leapt with happiness as I discarded my shoes (no shoes to be worn onboard at any time) and was shown to my lovely cabin.

I mean seriously lovely…a huge double bed, plenty of cupboard space to unpack into (always a good thing) and a spacious bathroom with large shower. And three portholes. Actual portholes that I could leave open to let in that Mediterranean sea air. The bed was amazingly comfortable and combined with the boat’s gentle motion led to lots of restful sleep.


My lovely cabin with a comfortably large double bed

through the porthole

Here’s one of the ever-changing views through my porthole

The MDFV voyages offer a combination of fitness with yoga, hiking and swimming, healthy (and delicious) eating, cruising to fabulous places and a chance to absorb local culture.

Days unfolded at a leisurely pace and I very quickly grew into my new life. For pre-breakfast (yes, I know, pre-breakfast) I soon developed a voracious appetite for Turkish tea with Turkish honey, sipped while looking out over shades of blue. The perfect way to wake up.

Then it was time for yoga. I’m always up for a bit of fitness, love walking and swimming and haul myself off to the gym fairly regularly. Yoga…not so sure. I did try it once many years back (I think I was 17) and remember the instructor laughing at my beginner’s efforts. Let’s just say it didn’t encourage me to keep going, although I was open to try again now this opportunity had presented itself.

Our yoga instructor Jen hailed from LA – Santa Monica to be exact – the perfect California Girl. And she didn’t laugh at me but offered encouragement and easier options when the going got tough. I miss those yoga sessions, I could feel the good they were doing me even after a week, I feel more yoga in my future life.


Yoga up front in the early morning sun

Itineraries varied, depending on our destination, with a mix of exploration, hiking, swimming or snorkelling and even a bit of shopping – plenty of time to soak up the local culture. All led with style by our knowledgable Tour Director Ali Yalcin.

Meals were all served on board. Captain Aytekin Karayigit is also in charge of the menu, and ably assisted by the lovely Ayla, produced healthy, tasty cuisine all using fresh local ingredients. For breakfast, plates of fresh cucumber and tomato, cheese, eggs, cereal and bowls of olives. Bowls of olives with everything, don’t know if I’ve ever seen so many olives consumed!


Fresh food and beautiful views at breakfast

Lunch was a wide range of vegetarian dishes – salads, peppers, beans, courgettes, aubergines, spinach, amazing potatoes and rice dishes, yogurt in many forms, traditional pastries. A table of delights every time, showcasing the wonderful flavours of Greece and Turkey.


More tasty dishes and sparkling views for lunch


Happiness is…dining together

More local specialities for dinner, often with the addition of a meaty plate, including the best meatballs, fabulous chicken pieces and kebabs. And the best thing ever – whenever we sailed the crew threw lines overboard and usually caught quite a lot of fish (often mackerel). And that would be our dinner – barbecued upfront on a little barbecue cleverly bolted onto the front of the boat. Fish doesn’t get fresher than this and boy could you taste it.


The clever barbecue with the best views

It sounds like we ate a lot, and I guess we did but I felt the healthiness of it all – no worries with getting your five-a-day here, and it felt like a pleasure rather than a chore.

Okay, back to the boat and my favourite place on it. Up the steps to the top for the upper deck. Covered with plenty of plump mattresses it made the perfect sunbathing chill-out spot and as I soon discovered, sleeping spot, too. When I could tear myself away from the comfort of my cabin, up the steps I went armed with my pillow and the huge fluffly blanket supplied which I wrapped myself up in for the perfect night under the stars. The ultimate in peaceful sleep, with an awakening by the sunrise and the gentle sound of goats bleating on shore.


Good morning after a night out in the fresh air


The perfect spot for chilling out in the day, too

Journeys don’t get better than this. From the wonderful boat and its many comforts, to the joy of jumping into the balmy, azure sea daily (at least) for a swim and snorkel, to exploring out-of-the-way places and picturesque towns, to the simple tranquility of it all and yes, the yoga, too. And the crew – knowledgable, friendly, fun – making for one of the loveliest holidays of my life. My love affair with Greece and Turkey continues.

You can find out all about next year’s Mediterranean Delights Fitness Voyages  by clicking here.

Next time I’ll tell you all about the places we visited. Like magnificent, dreamlike Symi. Watch this space.