Happy sunshine news from London! We’re having a heatwave! Seriously there’s an official definition of a heatwave which is when the daily maximum temperature for more than five consecutive days exceeds the average maximum temperature by five degrees. Not sure if we have actually met the target (though I think we may have surpassed it) but it feels like a heatwave to me. And what happens when there’s a heatwave in London? We all become obsessed with living an al fresco life…obviously.
Parks turn into sunbathing paradises, pavements transform into the perfect spot for social gatherings over a chilled beverage and everyone’s smiles widen. Of course I also have to make it my mission to search out the best restaurant roof terraces, courtyards and terraces the capital has to offer.
Which is why, today, we are heading to Boulestin in swanky St James. Not the most obvious place where you’d find an alfresco dining opportunity but that’s because Boulestin has a secret courtyard! How I love a secret courtyard.
This Boulestin opened in 2013, though the original was in Covent Garden, opened by Xavier Marcel Boulestin in 1927. M Boulestin is reputed to be the world’s first TV chef (on the BBC from 1937-1939). He is described as the most imaginative and liberating food writer of his time. High praise.
The menu is influenced by his original recipes, serving authentic French classics and a whole lot besides. It’s an exciting selection to tempt you as you settle under the umbrellas in the serenity of the courtyard, just steps from the hubbub that is St James.
What’s on the menu
On such a balmy day my eyes lit up as soon as they saw the gazpacho consommé in the starters section. And it was served with a cucumber and basil sorbet (can anything sing summer out any louder?) and some marinated courgettes.
This is a truly wonderful summery dish with an intensity of flavours that zing off your palate. And it’s so light and refreshing, it’s almost like a delicious savoury drink. I wanted to lick the bowl.
The charred octopus came with almond taramasalata (now that sounds intriguing), green olives and a roasted fig. Flavoursome, tender octopus with little dots of added flavour to bring the dish together perfectly – oh and the sweetness of that fig.
There’s a cornucopia of wonderful mains to boggle your mind, made easier by the fact that the warm summer air made the stomach go towards a desire for something cooling. So first up, lemon and rocket risotto served with mousserons and ricotta. Mousserons are small wild mushrooms which added a delicious earthiness to the creamy, citrussy taste, all topped off by fluffy clouds of ricotta. The rocket made for the perfectly green shade – certainly greener than most of the lawns in sun-soaked London Town.
The tuna tartare came with avocado mousse, compressed watermelon and a black sesame tuille. Succulent tuna layered with the watermelon and wonderfully dressed made for another sunshine dish – especially when combined with the creamy avo and crunch of the tuille. Wow! And double wow for the watermelon, such a creative and delicious addition.
How was that for the perfect summer lunch? Hidden away in the peace of a secluded courtyard drinking in the warm London air and enjoying great food. I’m not counting how many times I’ve used the words summer, sunshine or anything related, though I know it’s plenty! How I love London during a heatwave…can you tell?
Today’s price point
Lunch cost £76 for two people for a starter and a main each.
Boulestin is at 5 St James St, London W1